Home > Expert-Led Tours > The Classical Highlights of Libya with Dr Philip Kenrick
THE CLASSICAL HIGHLIGHTS OF LIBYA WITH DR PHILIP KENRICK
20th MARCH - 29th MARCH 2011
Tripoli
– Sabratha – Benghazi – Ptolemais – Qasr Libya – Cyrene
Apollonia – Slonta – Lepcis Magna
Libya is an oil–rich Arab country which has often seemed hostile to Europeans and Westerners in the 20th century; for many years it has therefore been effectively closed to foreign tourism. All of this changed in 1999 and it is now a country which is fascinating and rewarding to visit.
Because of the Arab conquest of North Africa in the 7th century AD, there has been since then a religious barrier between the northern and southern shores of the Mediterranean. Up to that time, however, the regions which comprise modern Libya had played an integral part in the history of Europe and the Mediterranean, being areas of Greek and Phoenician settlement and subsequently important parts of the Roman and Byzantine Empires.
The vestiges of Classical Antiquity are everywhere, and rank amongst the most impressive around the Mediterranean. Libya has five UNESCO World Heritage Sites, of which we shall visit three (Sabratha, Lepcis Magna and Cyrene). Sabratha is a modest Roman city with a theatre which was magnificently reconstructed by the Italian excavators; Cyrene is one of the great cities of the Classical World, with visible antiquities ranging from the 7th century BC to the 6th century AD, and Lepcis Magna is a stunning example of Roman town planning in the early 3rd century AD, when one of its native citizens, Septimius Severus, became Emperor in Rome.
Add to these a rich variety of landscape and of lesser rural sites for an unforgettable experience!
Dr. Philip Kenrick is a classical archaeologist who studied at Oxford and has worked on excavations in many parts of the Mediterranean. His doctoral research was carried out in Benghazi, and he has also been involved in fieldwork at Lepcis Magna, Cyrene and in the pre–desert zone of Tripolitania (western Libya). His area of specialization has been in the pottery of the Hellenistic and Roman periods, but he has also written a major report on British excavations which were carried out at Sabratha in 1948–51. He is currently Honorary Treasurer of the Society for Libyan Studies, the body which fosters and co–ordinates British research in the humanities in Libya. He is author of the recent Libya Archaeological Guide: Tripolitania and is currently preparing a companion volume on Cyrenaica.
Day 1 Sunday 20th March London Heathrow to Tripoli (D)
This morning make your own way to London Heathrow Terminal 5 by 0720 in order to catch British Airways flight BA0898 to Tripoli which departs at 0920 hours and arrives into Tripoli at 1455 hours local time. On your arrival you will be met and transferred to the El Khan Hotel where you will stay for the next two nights.
The ‘White Bride of the Mediterranean’, Tripoli, or At–Tarablus, is Libya’s largest and most cosmopolitan city and has a decidedly Mediterranean feel. Set on a natural harbour, the city has had many influences over centuries, from the Roman Empire and successive North African dynasties to the Ottoman Turks and 20th–century Italian colonists; all have left their mark. Founded by the Phoenicians at some time between the 7th and the 5th centuries BC, Tripoli, or Oea as it was originally known, was one of three trading–posts established by the Carthaginians along the southern coastline of the Lesser Syrtic Gulf. Following the fall of Carthage in 146 BC and a period of relative freedom, the three cities of Tripolitania were incorporated into the Roman province of Africa Nova a hundred years later as a consequence of the Roman civil war between Julius Caesar and Pompey the Great. The city prospered under the Romans, and visible remains belong mainly to the second century AD. It fell to the Vandals in 455, was recovered to the Byzantine Empire in 533 and was taken by the Arabs in 643. The continuity of occupation here shows that the city, henceforth known as at–Tarablus, was by now the principal settlement of the region. Political control had, however, passed to Qayrawan in Tunisia and Tripoli fell into relative obscurity until the 16th century. After interventions by the Spanish and the Knights of St. John, Tripolitania became part of the Ottoman Empire in 1551 – a period which was to witness much regeneration, construction and a revision of the city’s layout, much of which still remains. With the progressive collapse of the Ottoman Empire at the beginning of the 20th century, Italy invaded and held Libya as a colony between 1911 and 1943, and has left many examples of imposing Fascist architecture.
Later enjoy a short walk in modern Tripoli, as developed by the Italians in the 1930s. Places of interest include Green Square, September 1st Street and Algeria Square.
Day 2 Monday 21st March Tripoli – visit Sabratha (B/L/D)
This morning leave Tripoli and drive west along the coast to Sabratha, a remarkable site where excavations have been carried out since 1921. First settled by Carthaginians in the 5th century BC, within a century permanent stone structures were being built. The destruction of Carthage by Rome in the 2nd century BC coincided with a period of expansion. However, an earthquake in the 1st century AD created an opportunity for redevelopment of the centre along Roman lines. Sabratha reached its zenith during the 2nd and 3rd centuries, during which time the city extended its trade links and grew substantially in size and wealth. In the 4th century its population embraced Christianity, but in the mid–5th century it fell under the rule of the Vandals and is thought to have been in decline. After its recovery to Byzantine rule in 533, new defences were built and there was a brief revival, but in 643 the conquering Arabs entered through an unguarded gateway and took the city by surprise. There is modest evidence of occupation in the 8th century, but the site was probably abandoned soon after that, and remained largely buried until the Italians arrived in the 20th century.
On your arrival in Sabratha, spend the morning exploring the Punic Museum and the site, where the main places of interest include the Forum and surrounding temples, the harbour area, the 6th–century Basilica of Justinian – source of a magnificent mosaic now in the Roman Museum – the Seaward Baths and the other early Christian basilicas. However, the highlight of this morning is the outstanding Roman theatre, originally built in the late 2nd or early 3rd century AD and substantially reconstructed during the 1930s. The meticulous reconstruction of the three–storey stage–building and the exquisite carvings on the front of the stage make this one of the most memorable theatres in the Roman world.
After lunch, view the sculptures, mosaics and wall–paintings in the Roman Museum and travel the short distance to the amphitheatre to the east of the old city. Once able to seat over 10,000 people, the amphitheatre was built in the 2nd century AD. Afterwards return to Tripoli, stopping en–route in the small town of Janzur to visit an entrancing underground painted tomb of the 1st century AD, over which has been constructed a small museum with a display of artefacts from this and other burials found in the vicinity.
Day 3 Tuesday 22nd March Tripoli to Benghazi – by air (B/L/D)
This morning, after breakfast, take a walking tour of old Tripoli – a warren of streets and alleyways. Make your way to the Arch of Marcus Aurelius, the last intact structure from the Roman city of Oea. Built to reflect the city’s growing status, the arch stands in a strategic location at the cross–section of two main Roman roads and also marks the entrance to the city from the harbour. From here walk the short distance to the Gurgi Mosque, which was built in 1833 and is highly ornate, before continuing to the Old British Consulate. Originally built in 1744 as a residence for Ahmed Pasha, from the second half of the 18th Century until 1940 this beautiful Moorish two–storey building was the home of the British consul. The tour will also include the former Turkish prison, the old cathedral (now in the hands of the Anglican Church) and the elegant 19th–century Qaramanli House before stopping for lunch.
After lunch, transfer to Tripoli Airport in good time to catch your onward flight to Benghazi in Cyrenaica. Libya’s second city, Benghazi is largely a modern creation, following extensive destruction in the Second World War. On your arrival, if time allows, visit the beautifully kept Commonwealth War Cemetery, the resting place of Allied soldiers killed during the war. Stay overnight in Benghazi at the Tibesti Hotel.
Day 4 Wednesday 23rd March Benghazi to Susa (B/L/D)
Visit Ptolemais and Qasr Libya
This morning leave Benghazi and drive to the ruined city of Ptolemais. Founded in the 7th century BC as the port of Barka, Ptolemais was given new defences, a new street–plan and a new identity by Ptolemy I of Egypt in the 4th century BC. It prospered subsequently under Roman rule, and following the administrative reforms of the emperor Diocletian it was for a while the capital of the new province of Libya Superior. In the 5th century it lost this title to Apollonia, but it is one of the few classical settlements to have survived the advent of the Arabs, being referred to by Arab writers in the 12th and 14th centuries. At some time after that it was abandoned, to be resettled only in the 20th century.
On your arrival explore the site. Places of interest include the Byzantine Baths, the ‘Colonnaded Palace’, the extraordinary Square of the Cisterns (with underground cisterns with a capacity of over a million gallons), an odeon, an early Christian church and the fine Hellenistic Tocra Gate. The small site museum (where you will have lunch) contains a remarkable collection of Greek sculpture and Roman mosaics.
Afterwards, continue east to Qasr Libya, where two Byzantine churches were discovered by chance in 1957. The larger of these was furnished with remarkable mosaics, which have been lifted and are now on display in the site museum. The motifs show an extraordinary blend of pagan and Christian subjects, including the famous Pharos (lighthouse) of Alexandria, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Later drive on to Susa/Apollonia where you will stay for three nights at the Al–Manara Hotel.
Day 5 Thursday 24th March Susa – visit Cyrene (B/L/D)
Today enjoy a full day visit to the magnificent city of Cyrene which was founded in the 7th Century BC by settlers from the Greek island of Thera, modern–day Santorini. Led by a man called Battus, the islanders originally landed to the east of modern Derna before moving along the coast to the site where the city was founded in 631 BC. As the city grew and word of its rich agricultural land spread, more and more people arrived from Greece and by the 4th Century BC many viewed Cyrene as one of the most important, and cultured, cities of the Greek world. Later, Cyrene came under the control of both Alexander the Great and the Ptolemies before being ceded to the Romans in 96 BC. In the time of the Emperor Augustus, it became joint–capital (with Gortyn in Crete) of the province of Crete and Cyrene. In AD 115–117 it was gravely damaged, with much bloodshed, in the Jewish Revolt; subsequent recovery was set back by earthquakes and barbarian raids in the 3rd and 4th centuries, and the capital was transferred to Ptolemais. Cyrene never fully recovered, though several churches were built in the Byzantine period and there is some evidence of occupation after the Arab conquest.
One of the highs of a visit to Libya, this wonderfully preserved city set in a wooded landscape with stunning views towards the sea from a height of 600 m, has much to see and explore. You will start with the sculpture museum, opened ten years ago as a temporary display, but full of masterpieces of Greek and Roman art. Then visit the nearby Byzantine church and the archaic Temple of Zeus (larger than the Parthenon and the Temple of Zeus at Olympia, and another remarkable example of Italian restoration work). The remainder of the morning will be devoted to buildings along the Skyrota, the main street of the city, including the Hellenistic gymnasium (converted into a forum and basilica in the 1st century AD, the wealthy House of Jason Magnus and the buildings surrounding the Greek agora.
Lunch will be at a local restaurant, after which you will visit the Sanctuary of Apollo and its associated baths, public buildings and temples. Chief amongst these are the Fountain of Apollo, the Roman Baths built in AD 98 and the spectacular Greek theatre, later converted into an amphitheatre. End the day exploring the some of the rock–cut tombs of the North Necropolis – in use from the 6th Century BC onwards – which sprawls down the steep hillside along the road to Cyrene’s port of Apollonia.
Day 6 Friday 25th March Susa – visit Apollonia and Al–Athrun (B/L/D)
The first visit of the day starts from the steps of the hotel, which has been built (abusively!) directly outside the West Gate of Apollonia, the harbour for Cyrene and an important ancient city in its own right. First settled soon after Cyrene itself, Apollonia played a crucial role in developing the prosperity of the region. In the late Roman period, when Cyrene was in decline and the security of the interior could not be guaranteed, Apollonia succeeded Ptolemais as capital of Libya Superior, though the governor withdrew to Tocra and left it undefended in the face of the Arab advance in 642.
Because of its prominent status in the late Roman period, most of the visible ruins at Apollonia (apart from the Hellenistic defences) belong to this stage in its history. Excavations have hitherto revealed three early churches and a wealthy residential complex which may have been the Byzantine governor’s palace (where Theodora, future wife of the emperor Justinian, lived as his mistress). There is also a small theatre in a breathtaking position beside the sea.
Afterwards, leave Apollonia and drive eastwards to al–Athrun, where two Byzantine churches were excavated in 1961 (another casual discovery!). One of them has recently been restored by the French, and its white marble columns make a dazzling contrast with the deep blue sea. From here, drive up onto the Jabal, above Ras al–Hillal, for lunch. The views here over the coast here are spectacular and some of the most dramatic in Libya. After lunch explore the Greek monumental tombs which line this ancient road before continuing to Safsaf, an unexcavated ancient village with a huge cistern over 200 metres long which may have been part of the water–supply system for Cyrene. Return to Susa for the night.
Day 7 Saturday 26th March Susa to Benghazi
Benghazi to Tripoli – by air (B/L/D)
This morning, after breakfast, leave Susa and drive through the Green Mountains to Slonta site of an eerie rock–face with carvings unlike anything else in Libya. There has been much debate about the original use of the site: it is thought that it originally took the form of a cave which became the focus of an indigenous cult associated with the Underworld. There is a bizarre array of figures, faces and animals carved into the rock suggest to many that it was a place of worship, or a cult, which then gave rise to the complex. The complex is difficult to date: some elements in the carvings suggest the 2nd or 3rd century AD, but others could be much earlier and pottery of the 5th century BC has been found in the vicinity.
A little to the west of Slonta, stop to explore one of the Byzantine fortresses built to control the broken country of the Wadi Kuf. The hilltop site of Qasr Shahdayn is enclosed by a rock–cut moat, within which is a massive stone keep. The castle enjoys inter–visibility with several similar strong–points in the vicinity.
Continue west to the ancient city of Tocra – another of the five cities of the Cyrenaican Pentapolis (along with Cyrene, Apollonia, Ptolemais and Berenice/Benghazi). Archaeological evidence extends from the 7th century BC until the Arab conquest in the 7th century AD: it was from here that the Byzantine governor set sail in 645, abandoning once and for all the claim of Constantinople to Cyrenaica. Excavations here have been less extensive than in the other cities of Classical Libya, but it is possible to follow the Hellenistic city walls and to see the Byzantine barracks which appear to have been built in haste in the early 7th century BC. The dusty little museum (if accessible) possesses a remarkable display of Greek painted pottery from an early sanctuary found on the sea–front in the 1960s. Following a picnic lunch continue onto Benghazi Airport in good time to catch your onward flight to Tripoli. On your arrival you will be met and transferred to the El Khan Hotel where you will stay overnight.
Day 8 Sunday 27th March Tripoli to Lepcis Magna (B/L/D)
This morning leave Tripoli and take an inland route east to Al–Khoms and Lepcis Magna. This will take you onto the fertile Tarhunah plateau which was the basis of the agricultural wealth of the coastal cities in the Roman period. Stops will be made en–route at the monumental tomb at Qasr Dughah and at Hinshir Sidi Hamdan – a Roman olive farm – before arriving in Lepcis Magna in time for lunch. Stay overnight in Al–Khoms at the Severus Hotel.
One of the finest Roman cities in the Mediterranean, it is not difficult to picture Lepcis Magna as a living, breathing city. Remarkably well preserved, Lepcis Magna is a treasure trove of grand buildings, bath complexes, lavish decorations and public works. However, its remains also document ordinary life in the city, street layouts and how Lepcis was planned. Originally a small trading port populated by settlers from Tyre and Carthage, Lepcis came under the control of the Numidian Kingdom in 146 BC and under that of Rome in 46 BC. By this time it was already wealthy, for we know that Julius Caesar imposed on it an annual tribute of 3 million lbs (about 1.5M litres) of olive oil in return for having supported his rival Pompey.
Lepcis Magna continued to develop into a city of great status. Under Augustus, the city became one of the leading ports of Africa, was laid out in a new Roman style and minted its own coinage. Inscriptions show us, however, that this was largely done under the patronage of a local elite, who had Punic (Carthaginian) names and recorded their beneficence in Neo–Punic as well as in Latin. As elsewhere, the 2nd century AD was a time of prosperity and expansion, but it was at the beginning of the 3rd century, under the patronage of the emperor Septimius Severus, that it reached its zenith with a monumental re–planning of the port and the urban centre. Subsequent decline may have been hastened by bankruptcy resulting from this over–ambitious scheme, but under Diocletian the city became the capital of the new province of Tripolitana. Briefly revived during the Byzantine period by the Emperor Justinian I (who found the city abandoned and enveloped in sand), the city remained occupied until finally abandoned in the 10th Century AD.
This afternoon, explore the central area, including the Arch of Septimius Severus, the Hadrianic Baths, the Severan Forum and Basilica, the Old Forum, the market and the theatre.
Day 9 Monday 28th March Lepcis Magna
Al–Khoms to Tripoli (B/L/D)
Start the day on the eastern outskirts of the city, where there is one of the best–preserved circus race–tracks in the Roman world, and a remarkable Roman amphitheatre constructed in a former quarry. From this side it is also possible to explore the Severan port facilities, with quays, warehouses and mooring–rings for the ships. The port of Lepcis also has its own, partially–preserved, Roman lighthouse.
Return to the central area to visit the excellently displayed museum (and possibly the new mosaics museum, if it is open by then), and to make further explorations of the site. Lunch will be at a local restaurant. In the afternoon return to Tripoli and stay overnight at the El Khan Hotel.
Day 10 Tuesday 29th March Tripoli to London Heathrow (B/L)
This morning start the day with a visit to the impressive Jamahiriya Museum – built within the 16th–century castle on the edge of the Medina and home to one of the finest collections of classical art in the Mediterranean. With a comprehensive overview of all aspects of Libyan history, the collections extend from the Palaeolithic period right up to the present day and include Phoenician, Greek and Roman galleries, exhibitions from the Islamic and Turkish eras, resistance to the Italian occupation and revolutionary Libya.
Later transfer to Tripoli Airport in good time to catch British Airways flight BA0899 to London Heathrow which departs at 1525 hours and arrives into London at 1805 hours. Lunch will be provided in the airport restaurant after check–in.
END OF SERVICES
The cost of the above 10 Day itinerary will be as follows:
1. £2650.00 per person based on twin sharing accommodation and Economy travel with British Airways.
2. Single Room Supplement £450.00 per person
We are a licensed bonded Inclusive Tour Operator (ABTA V5041, ATOL 2841). The above price is a fully inclusive price covering all our services and is fully guaranteed against any surcharge for any reason once your deposit has been paid.
If you would like to proceed with the booking, we will require a deposit of 15% of the total cost, and this can be paid by cheque or credit / debit card. We are pleased to accept credit cards (Visa, Amex and MasterCard) or debit card (such as Maestro or Delta) over the telephone if this is more convenient for you. Pettitts do not charge a supplement on deposit payments by credit cards; however, balance or full payment is subject to a 1.5% charge towards the cost of the credit card issuers commission. There is no charge for any payment by debit card.
Pre-existing medical conditions / Disabled passengers
It is essential that you advise us before booking if you have any
disability, pre-existing medical conditions or important dietary requirement
that Pettitts should be made aware of before we accept responsibility
for operating this itinerary to the countries named. We may request
that you provide a letter from your doctor confirming your fitness
to travel.
For your peace of mind...
If, within two weeks of your departure, the Foreign and Commonwealth
Office issues a travel advisory advising against all, or non-essential,
travel to a country where you are taking your holiday, Pettitts will
do its best to offer you either a suitable alternative holiday or
a full refund of all monies paid.For current and general travel advice on Libya, issued by the Foreign and Commonwealth Travel Advice Unit, you are advised to check on www.fco.gov.uk.
Please note…
This tour is based on a minimum of 10 and a maximum of 16 clients and we anticipate that it will be oversubscribed. However, if eight weeks or more before departure there are insufficient bookings we reserve the right to cancel the tour and you would receive an immediate full refund.
Dr Philip Kenrick has agreed to lead this tour; however, in the unlikely event that he is unable to accompany this tour for whatever reason we reserve the right to arrange a suitable alternative leader. Whilst we do not anticipate any major changes to this itinerary, Philip Kenrick at his discretion, may adjust it to suit local conditions at the time.
Libya is an Islamic country and alcohol is strictly forbidden.
Entry to Libya – Anyone with an Israeli stamp in their passport or any indication that they have visited Israel, including entry stamps from/to Jordan or Egypt at their border crossings with Israel, will be refused entry into Libya.
What’s included...
* The tour will be led by Dr Philip Kenrick together with the full time services of an English speaking local tour guide.
* Economy class travel to and from Libya using the scheduled services of British Airways using Airbus A320 series aircraft. Once issued, flight tickets are restricted for use only on the dates specified in the itinerary and are non-refundable.
Please note that airlines are required by new laws to give border control agencies access to passenger data. Accordingly any information we hold about you and your travel arrangements may be disclosed to the customs and immigration authorities of any country in your itinerary.
* UK and Libyan International Airport Departure Tax
* All entrance fees to monuments and museums as indicated in the itinerary.
* Between places you will travel by air-conditioned coach and economy class domestic flights from Tripoli to Benghazi and return as shown in your itinerary.
* Accommodation as specified including hotel service charges and local taxes.
* Meals are based on a set menu basis as indicated in the above itinerary:
B=Breakfast
L=Lunch
D=Dinner
* All gratuities in Libya to local porters, restaurants, drivers, guides and tour manager.
Extras...
* Travel insurance. It is a condition of your contract with Pettitts that every member of the party has full Travel Insurance which covers, specifically, medical treatment and emergency repatriation where appropriate, without any exclusion. Please note that we will need to know the name of your insurers, your policy number and their emergency contact number before commencement of your holiday.
* Any expenses of a personal nature, such as canned drinks, telephone calls, laundry, camera/video camera fees, meals (other than specified) etc.
Cost of visas for Libya. Details will be sent at the time of booking.
Your doctor will advise you on which inoculations and anti malaria precautions are recommended for your itinerary. Please refer to www.nhs.uk/Healthcareabroad for general overseas health advice. For current information on health advice you may wish to call MASTA Travellers Helpline on 09068 224100.
The Classical Highlights of Libya 2011